The Ultimate Guide to the Best Firewood for Your Fireplace

There’s nothing quite like the deep, radiant warmth and mesmerizing flicker of a real wood fire. It’s more than just a heat source; it’s an experience that brings comfort, ambiance, and a timeless focal point to any American home. But not all fires are created equal. The quality of your fire—how hot it burns, how long it lasts, and how safe it is—all starts with one crucial choice: the firewood you use.
Choosing the wrong wood can lead to a frustrating experience filled with excessive smoke, low heat output, and dangerous creosote buildup in your chimney. Choosing the right wood, however, transforms your fireplace into an efficient, beautiful, and satisfying heat source. This guide is designed to be your definitive resource, demystifying the world of firewood. We’ll explore everything from the science of seasoned wood to a detailed breakdown of the best (and worst) types of wood to burn, ensuring every fire you build is a perfect one.
An Expert’s Note on Firewood Selection
With over two decades in the chimney and hearth industry, I’ve seen the direct consequences of poor firewood choices. From frustrating fireplace draft problems caused by wet wood to severe chimney fires fueled by creosote from burning softwoods, the fuel you choose is the single most important factor in fireplace safety and performance. This guide is built on years of hands-on experience, helping homeowners like you get the most enjoyment and heat from their fireplace, safely and efficiently.
The Foundation of a Great Fire: It’s All About Seasoning
Before we even mention a single tree species, we must cover the most critical concept in firewood: seasoning. Seasoning is simply the process of drying wood to reduce its moisture content. Freshly cut wood, or “green” wood, is over 50% water by weight. Burning green wood is a terrible idea for several reasons:
- Low Heat Output: The fire has to waste a huge amount of its energy boiling off the water inside the wood before it can produce usable heat for your room. This results in a smoldering, weak fire.
- Excessive Smoke: The inefficient, low-temperature burn of wet wood creates a massive amount of smoke. If you’ve ever had issues with fireplace smoke coming into your house, wet wood is a primary suspect.
- Dangerous Creosote Buildup: The smoke from wet wood is thick, black, and filled with unburned gases that condense on the cool walls of your chimney flue, forming a tar-like, highly flammable substance called creosote. This is the leading cause of chimney fires.
Properly seasoned firewood should have a moisture content of less than 20%. This is the golden rule. At this level, the wood ignites easily, burns hot and clean, and produces the maximum amount of heat with minimal smoke.

The Essential Tool: Digital Wood Moisture Meter
Don’t guess, know for sure. A wood moisture meter is the single best investment you can make to guarantee you’re burning safe, efficient firewood. Simply press the prongs into a split piece of wood to get an instant, accurate reading. It’s the only way to be 100% confident that the wood you’re buying or seasoning yourself is ready to burn.
Check Price on AmazonHardwood vs. Softwood: The Main Event
All wood falls into two basic categories: hardwood and softwood. For a fireplace, this distinction is everything.
Hardwoods: The Kings of Firewood
Hardwoods come from deciduous trees (trees that lose their leaves in the fall), like oak, maple, and hickory. They are denser and heavier than softwoods.
- High Heat Output (BTU): Because they are so dense, hardwoods pack more potential energy per log. They produce a hotter, longer-lasting fire.
- Long-Lasting Coals: They burn down into a bed of hot, glowing coals that continue to radiate heat long after the flames have died down.
- Less Smoke & Creosote: When properly seasoned, they burn very cleanly with minimal smoke.
The bottom line: Hardwoods are the premium fuel for any fireplace or wood stove. While they can be more expensive and take longer to season, the superior performance is well worth it.
Softwoods: The Kindling Specialists
Softwoods come from coniferous trees (trees with needles and cones), like pine, fir, and spruce. They are less dense and contain more resin (sap).
- Easy to Ignite: Their low density and high resin content make them incredibly easy to light, which is why they are excellent for kindling to get a fire started.
- Fast, Flashy Burn: They burn very hot and fast with a big, bright flame, but they are consumed quickly.
- High Creosote Risk: The resin in softwoods produces more smoke and soot, leading to faster creosote buildup. They also have a tendency to “pop” and throw sparks due to trapped pockets of resin.
The bottom line: Use softwoods for kindling, but avoid using them as your main fuel source to keep your chimney cleaner and safer. The only exception might be in a wood stove, where a hotter fire can burn off some of the resins more cleanly. Even then, the difference in performance between a wood stove vs fireplace heating system is stark, with stoves handling different woods more efficiently.
The Best of the Best: A Deep Dive into Top-Tier Hardwoods
While most seasoned hardwoods will perform well, some are truly in a class of their own. Here’s a breakdown of the A-list firewoods widely available in the United States.
Wood Type | Heat Output (BTU/Cord) | Ease of Splitting | Sparks | Aroma |
---|---|---|---|---|
Oak (Red & White) | Very High (24-29 Million) | Medium to Hard | Low | Mild |
Hickory | Excellent (27-29 Million) | Hard | Low | Pleasant, Strong |
Hard Maple (Sugar Maple) | High (24 Million) | Medium | Low | Sweet, Mild |
Ash (White) | High (23.6 Million) | Easy | Low | Mild |
Birch (Yellow & Black) | Medium-High (20-21 Million) | Easy | Low | Pleasant |
1. Oak (Red and White) – The Undisputed Champion
If firewood were royalty, Oak would be king. It’s the gold standard against which all other firewoods are measured. It’s dense, widely available, and provides a superior burn.
- Heat Output: Extremely high. Oak produces a very hot, slow-burning fire that lasts for hours, creating a fantastic bed of coals.
- Seasoning Time: This is its only drawback. Due to its density, oak needs to be seasoned for a very long time. Red oak takes at least one full year, while ultra-dense white oak can take up to two years to reach that sub-20% moisture level.
- Verdict: The absolute best firewood if you have the patience to season it properly or can buy it pre-seasoned from a reputable dealer. Perfect for overnight burns.
2. Hickory – The Hot & Flavorful Choice
A close relative of the pecan tree, Hickory is another top-tier firewood that rivals oak in density and heat output. It’s famous in the barbecue world for its flavorful smoke, and it brings that same quality to the fireplace.
- Heat Output: Excellent, one of the highest BTU ratings available. It burns extremely hot and long.
- Aroma: Many people love the strong, pleasant, almost sweet aroma it produces.
- Seasoning Time: Like oak, it is very dense and requires at least a year of seasoning.
- Verdict: A fantastic, premium firewood. If you can find it, it’s an excellent choice for anyone wanting maximum heat and a pleasant scent.
3. Hard Maple (Sugar Maple) – The Reliable Performer
Not to be confused with its softer relatives like silver maple, Hard Maple (or Sugar Maple) is a dense, high-quality firewood.
- Heat Output: High. It burns very steadily and hot, producing a long-lasting fire with beautiful coals.
- Ease of Use: It’s generally easier to split than oak or hickory.
- Aroma: It produces a very pleasant, sweet, and mild aroma.
- Verdict: A top-quality, reliable firewood that’s easier to handle than oak but provides a similarly excellent burning experience.
4. Ash (White Ash) – The People’s Choice
Ash is often beloved by firewood veterans for its fantastic all-around properties. Unfortunately, the Emerald Ash Borer insect has devastated Ash populations in many parts of the U.S., making it harder to find but also creating a supply from felled trees.
- Heat Output: High, providing a steady, long-lasting fire.
- Ease of Splitting: This is its claim to fame. Ash is famously straight-grained and easy to split, even with a simple maul.
- Seasoning Time: It has a naturally lower moisture content and seasons much faster than oak or maple, often ready in about six months.
- Verdict: An outstanding firewood in every category. If you can source it, its combination of high heat and easy processing is hard to beat.
5. Birch – The Quick & Aromatic Burner
Birch is easily recognizable by its beautiful, often papery bark. While not as dense as the top-tier hardwoods, it’s still an excellent choice, especially for the shoulder seasons of fall and spring.
- Heat Output: Medium-high. It produces a good amount of heat but burns faster than oak or maple.
- Ease of Use: It lights very easily (the bark itself is a fantastic natural fire starter) and produces a bright, cheerful flame.
- Aroma: It has a wonderfully pleasant scent while burning.
- Warning: The papery bark can produce some flakey ash, and it can contribute to creosote if not fully seasoned. Always ensure your chimney is well-maintained, using the best chimney brush for your liner and a chimney sweep vacuum for clean maintenance.
- Verdict: A great “ambiance” wood that’s easy to work with and provides good heat, even if it doesn’t last as long as the denser hardwoods.

Smart Storage Solution: Heavy-Duty Outdoor Log Rack
Proper seasoning requires proper storage. A sturdy steel log rack elevates your wood off the ground, protecting it from rot and ground moisture. It allows for optimal airflow from all sides, dramatically speeding up the drying process and keeping your firewood neat, organized, and ready to burn.
Check Price on AmazonThe “Do Not Burn” List: Woods to Avoid at All Costs
Just as important as knowing what to burn is knowing what to never put in your fireplace. Burning the wrong materials can be incredibly dangerous, releasing toxic chemicals and creating serious fire hazards.
WARNING: NEVER Burn These in Your Fireplace
- Pressure-Treated Wood: This wood is treated with chemicals like chromated copper arsenate. Burning it releases highly toxic arsenic and chromium into the air inside your home.
- Painted, Stained, or Varnished Wood: These coatings contain chemicals that produce toxic fumes when burned. This includes old furniture, pallets (unless stamped “HT” for heat-treated), and construction scraps.
- Driftwood: Salt-water driftwood contains chlorine from the salt, which can be released as carcinogenic dioxins when burned. It can also cause severe corrosion to your fireplace and chimney components, which might require a professional to repair with the best mortar for the chimney.
- Plywood, Particle Board, or MDF: These are engineered woods held together with glues and resins that release formaldehyde and other toxic chemicals when burned.
- Green Wood: As discussed, it’s inefficient and the leading cause of dangerous creosote buildup.
- Trash or Cardboard: Burning household trash or printed cardboard can release a cocktail of unknown, harmful chemicals from inks and plastics.
Practical Firewood Guide: From Tree to Fire
Knowing the best wood is only half the battle. You also need to know how to source, process, and store it correctly.
How to Properly Season Your Own Firewood
- Cut to Length: Cut logs to a length that fits comfortably in your fireplace, typically 16-18 inches.
- Split Promptly: Split the logs as soon as possible after cutting. This exposes the interior wood to air and dramatically reduces drying time. Leaving logs “in the round” traps moisture.
- Stack for Airflow: Stack the split wood in a single row with the split-side down, in a location that gets good sun and wind. Leave gaps between logs for air to circulate. Elevate the pile off the ground on a log rack or pallets.
- Cover the Top (Only): Cover only the top 1/3 of the pile with a tarp or dedicated firewood cover. This protects it from rain and snow while leaving the sides open for air to escape. Covering the entire pile traps moisture and promotes mold.
- Be Patient: Wait the required time (6 months for softwoods/Ash, 1-2 years for Oak/Hickory), and then use your moisture meter to confirm it’s ready.
How to Buy Firewood Like a Pro
If you’re buying firewood, you need to be a savvy customer.
- Know Your Measurements: Firewood is sold by the “cord.” A full cord is a tightly stacked pile measuring 4ft high x 4ft wide x 8ft long (128 cubic feet). A “face cord” or “rick” is 4ft high x 8ft long but only as wide as the logs are cut (e.g., 16 inches). Be sure you know what you are paying for.
- Ask Questions: Ask the seller what type of wood it is (ask for a hardwood mix) and when it was split. Be wary of anyone selling “seasoned” wood that was only split a month ago.
- Inspect the Wood: Look for signs of seasoning. Seasoned wood is often grayish in color, lighter in weight, and has cracks (checks) on the ends. When you knock two pieces together, it should make a sharp “clack” sound, not a dull “thud.”
- Bring Your Meter: The best way to avoid being ripped off is to bring your moisture meter and test a few pieces before you buy. Any reputable seller should have no problem with this.
Frequently Asked Questions About Firewood
Q: What is the single best-smelling firewood?
A: This is subjective, but many people prize fruitwoods like Apple and Cherry for their incredible aroma. They don’t produce as much heat as oak or hickory, but burning a few logs on a special occasion creates an amazing scent. Hickory is also a top contender for its savory, barbecue-like smell.
Q: Is it okay to burn wood from a dead tree I found?
A: Yes, “standing dead” wood is often an excellent source of firewood as it has already started the seasoning process naturally. However, you must ensure it is not rotten or punky, as this will produce a smoky, low-heat fire. Use your moisture meter to check it before burning.
Q: How do I get a smoky fire to stop?
A: A smoky fire is almost always a sign of wet wood or insufficient airflow. Ensure your damper is fully open. Try adding smaller pieces of very dry kindling to increase the temperature of the firebox. If the problem persists, you may have chimney issues. A cold flue can cause downdrafts, and a blocked chimney from creosote or a birds’ nest will prevent smoke from exiting. Make sure you have one of the best chimney caps for rain and debris protection. For more options, you may consider an electric fireplace vs a wood fireplace if you want to avoid smoke altogether.
Q: Does bark on or bark off matter for seasoning?
A: Splitting the wood is far more important than removing the bark. Air can’t easily penetrate bark, so the exposed split face is where most of the moisture escapes. Some wood, like birch, has bark that is very water-resistant. Stacking wood bark-side down can help shed water and allow the split side to dry more effectively.
Q: Can I use gas to start my wood fire?
A: Only if you have a “gas log lighter” professionally installed in your fireplace. This is a dedicated pipe that uses natural gas or propane to ignite the wood. NEVER use flammable liquids like gasoline, lighter fluid, or kerosene to start a fire in your fireplace. This is extremely dangerous and can cause an explosive flare-up. There are many different gas fireplace venting options, and a log lighter has its own specific requirements.